Sunday, August 31, 2008

On The 7th day he rested

I usually always make the wrong move about exercising when hurt, but today I decided that because I could still "feel" my knee yesterday afternoon I decided to take the day off; besides if I felt no pain on Sunday I could cycle on Labor Day -- which is now my plan.

So I did 2 hours of yard work. Yuck. Would rather bike 50 miles.

Saturday, August 30, 2008

More RAGBRAI Photos!

I have posted another 12 photos from RAGBRAI in Iowa. The URL is in the upper left and connects to the same photo album that has my Italian photos. The first 12 are RAGBRAI and the next are all Italy. Enjoy!!

Saturday Race

First the good news: today was my fastest solo 50 miler of the year. But, and there's always a but, it was not exactly a fun ride. Three guys from my old cycling group passed me about one hour into the ride, just after I had done a personal time trial for 2 miles across the dam at the end of Lake Grapevine, so I was in rest mode when they went by. I thought about giving chase, but I was spent and there were three of them, which allows for them to alternate drafting and besides, the reason I don't ride with them anymore is that they are all about 20% faster than I am -- and there's one guy in the group who is not friendly.

None-the-less, I did amp up my speed and made somewhat of an attempt and caught them at a light in about 4 miles. I rode with them for a while, but J., the one guy from my old group who no longer talks to me was leading and increased the speed to 24, which even drafting was too much for me after a mile, so I dropped back. I am sure he did it on purpose (Only the paranoid survive!), as he looked back at one point to see if I was still there. Then he slowed down to a normal 18 mph, so I put on a furious attack up to 25 mph and caught up to them just to say thanks for the ride to the one nice guy I know in the group. Then I let them go again. That attack caused me to go too far into my anaerobic zone and it took me 15 minutes to recover. Do I admit to being a bit competitive? :) Well, yes, despite my slow speed.

I did pass them again at mile 30 when they stopped for a bio break on the side of the road. Then they passed me at mile 36 and that was that.

But I did maintain my speed all the way in and averaged 16, which is high for me solo, as my usual speed is 14.

Finished at 155.8 lbs, 5.5% body fat and 60% hydration, which is odd, because the sweat today was running off my head. It was 85 with 61% humidity. Pretty awful out there

But the ride was not much fun. Too back and forth in speed. I never got into a comfortable rhythm. I plan on a nice easy ride tomorrow! No more chasing down folks.

Friday Ride

Decided to ride before work (which was a good idea as an afternoon thunderstorm dumped buckets of water on the roads), and test my knee with my old pedals out there. I could feel the knee as I started and almost thought about doing the smart thing and turning back -- but I never do the smart thing, and soldiered on for an hour. It felt almost perfect at the end, so I was happy. I also did not win the pedals on EBAY, as someone bid an even more obscene amount for used pedals than I was prepared to. So I am bidding on another pair of more beat up ones, but they still look better than my current ones.

Thursday, August 28, 2008

Thursday - Enforced Rest

I have put the old pedals on, cleaned up the new ones and sending them back to Performance Bike and bidding on a replacement pair for the ones I have on Ebay -- and watching Obama in Denver.

Tomorrow I will do an hour in the morning and see how the knee works.

Had lunch with a real athlete - retired today. Former Champion figure skater. Told me she finds the concentration of hours on a bike difficult. Methinks she's being polite as I have no doubt that with a month of training she'd ride rings around me!

OK, so I did beat half the Cittadella team up the mountain -- but they are all probably 65-70!

Worlds Slowest Triathlete -- C'Est Moi!

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Wednesday Knee Pain

OK, so I was not lucky. The new pedals and cleat alignmnet caused a slight pain in my right knee about halfway through the ride. So I will put the old pedals back on. Oh well. The pain is in my right knee, the same knee that has caused me problems since I was 20.

Other than that it was an uneventful 15 miles tonight in 95 degree heat. Went through a whole 24 oz water bottle -- which in the morning lasts 2 hours. Came home and drank another 16 oz. But it didn't feel all that hot as I am pretty used to it. And no, it's no longer a dry heat here in Texas. Arizona yes, but not here.

Will take off tomorrow and heal the knee and try again with the old pedals on Friday.

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Tuesday Evening Ride

Given that I don't have much time and light in the morning I rode after work tonight, a rare time for me these days. There was a time when I always biked after work, but in those days I got to work at 7 am for some stupid reason. Then a few years ago I started to bike to work during the summer and/or bike before work, and since then I have rarely ridden in the evening. It was about 95 but didn't seem like any big deal, although if it was 95 on the Northeast coast at 6PM there would be a heat advisory.

I cruised for an hour, testing out my new pedals and hoping that there would be no knee pain given that my foot (and hence knee) was in a different locked position from my old pedals. But it felt fine and if that's the case tomorrow I will do another 15 and keep it up. If pain develops the experiment is over and it's back to the old pedals.

Monday, August 25, 2008

Monday Swim

Since I wasn't biking today and the temps were in the mid 90's I swam after work. Workout was good although for the second time in 2 swims my right shoulder started to hurt a bit after 30 minutes.

And I must saw that the swim made me both hungary and tired.

Back to the bike tomorrow, albeit it after the work.

The season draws to a close

My season officially ends around September 1 as I lose the daylight before work and after work as well so biking during the week becomes problematic. I bike only on weekends, although I will bike all winter as long as there's no ice on the ground. I have fanatical friends who bike indoors but I have found that to be too boring and hot. I will swim indoors this winter.

I did accomplish all my goals for the summer:

1. Completed my second RAGBRAI across Iowa
2. Rode in Italy for my fourth summer in a row
3. Got back to my usual summer weight
4. Got as fit as I normally am in cycling season

Monday is an off day for biking. May swim after work.

Sunday, August 24, 2008

Sunday Ride

Another Sunday, another strong 50 -- and very uneventful. Did see a lot of women cyclists out there today, which is unusual. Also unusual is that I went the whole 50 without one cyclist passing me; odd, given my slow speed.

But a perfect weekend, as defined by cycling 50 miles both days, and the Thursday/Friday beforehand. I bought new Shimano spd pedals, which resulted in many trips to the bike store to get parts and hardware to attach them to my shoe. My old pedals were about 15 years old and had some broken parts in them. Didn't impede their function but did make noise. I will test them out this week on a short ride to make sure they don't cause knee pain.

Saturday, August 23, 2008

Yahoos in Texas

I suppose it goes without saying that there are probably more yahoos, typically in pick up trucks, per square mile than in any other state.

They delight in zooming past too close and occasionally throwing stuff, or just screaming obscenities. But today hit a new low, even for Texas. Tow assholes in a battered 280 Z passed me while I was in a full car shoulder lane and yelled N---er at me. Rather bizarre. Granted, I was in a full black kit, and I am tan, but really??

And Jackie Robinson aside, it's at that point that I wished I had the power to cause a tire blowout. It's just not enough to know that I will out earn them my whole life!

The ride otherwise was good, and did a strong 50. Saw more small groups of cyclists out today than in a long while, odd because today is the Hotter Than Hell century ride in Wichita falls, about 2 1/2 hours north of here.

I have done that ride, once, so no need to do it again, as you generally need to incur the cost of a hotel room for the night before. It was fun, once. Now they are actually making everyone pay for 2 nights, which is a real rip off.

Friday, August 22, 2008

Swimming

Had nothing to do today after work, and the weather was warm, at 98, so I decided to go for a swim, as I hadn't been in the pool since RAGBRAI to do serious laps.
I was a little out of shape, but did about a mile. Met a nice fellow swimmer, Ken, who was on heavy weight crew at Syracuse University for 4 years back in the late 80's. Big guy! we talked about the Olympics for a time since I am always in a social mood in the pool (or on a bike).

another fast time

Today's time was the same as yesterday, although the wind had shifted. Instead of blowing me home with a north wind, the wind is now blowing from the south, as the summer's heat returns.
I am still suffering from Italy withdrawal.

Thursday, August 21, 2008

Faster

Finally was able to get out this morning at 7AM for an hour before work, but this is about the last week before I lose the light in the morning.

Forecast calls for rain again today but the radar was clear so I went for it. It was good to get out after three days of doing nothing. There was no wind to speak of this AM although the humidity was around 85 -90%.

I was feeling decent and with about 5 miles to go started to go faster, and finished with my highest average for a morning hour, over 15mph, in quite a while. My last 3 miles were over 20.

Wednesday, August 20, 2008

RAIN

It has rained on and off for 7 days now, and caused me to pause in my training. Tough to bike in the rain, and while I will swim in it, it's been lightning too, which makes it dangerous.

So no exercise Monday or Tuesday and today is Wednesday and not looking very promising. I might get to swim today after work, but it's only a possibility.

Monday, August 18, 2008

Booking Italy for Next May

Remembering that one can book award travel 331 days in advance I booked my next trip to Italy for May 2009 this morning using 60,000 miles. Booked same flights and seats that I had this trip. Can't wait!

Sunday, August 17, 2008

Sunday Ride

Another day, another 50 miles.
Felt stronger today, although my average speed was identical to yesterday.
And as luck would have it, with about 8 miles to go I saw three people closing in fast behind me and jumped on the last person's wheel, and drafted them at an incredible speed of 24 mph for the next 3 or 4 miles until I turned off while they went straight. I think it was a father and wife and daughter or father and two daughters.

What a great ride!

Saturday, August 16, 2008

Saturday Ride

We continue to have uncertain weather here, and it was completely overcast. My rule is I won't start in the rain, but will finish in it. So I folded my rain jacket into my shirt pockets and set out to do 50 miles.

I must say that with no mountains to climb and no cappuccino to savor at the top it's not the same.

The ride was pretty uneventful, although I did have the wind at my back for a very nice 8 mile stretch of straight highway, with made riding very pleasant.

With about 4 miles to go I saw a group of cyclists making a turn into the road I was on, and I sped up to catch them. It was the Bicycle's Inc. Racing team, clearly at the tail end of their 65 mile Saturday ride, and not going too fast at this point, if I caught up with them. I rode with them for about 1/2 mile and then in switching gears, lost my chain and had to stop to put it on --losing about 200 yards in the process. I toyed with the idea of letting them go, but then the thought of drafting them all the way home took over, and like the runner who has fallen in the race in Chariots of Fire, I got on my bike and with a furious charge caught up to them, again, and settled in for a nice ride home as the wind was at our back and it's slightly downhill. Pretty soon the group was doing 27 mph, which is pretty fast for me, but I held on without issue. It was worth the effort I had expended to catch up.

Got home feeling stronger than when I had started, which is always good.

Friday, August 15, 2008

Back In The USA

Arrived back home on Wednesday night, and put my bike together Thursday after work but it was raining by the time I finished, and it continued on Friday morning. I did get out for an hour at the end of the day although I had no speed and biked on autopilot for an hour thinking that this just wasn't as much fun as Italy.

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

what are the odds, cont.

As I was sitting here in JFK airport waiting for my flight to leave, I saw a familiar face walk by, Bill B., a pilot and captain for American Airline. We shook hands and laughed about the fact that as much as we travel we have never run into each other. I asked where he was headed and it was DFW, so he would be flying me home. I called Nancy and we had a good laugh as she knows Bill and his wife well. They live in Dallas, as do hundreds of AA pilots and yet in the past 11 years we have never run into each other.

Btw, no exercise today! Maybe tomorrow.

It's been a long day and it's about midnight for me, but the sunlight keeps me going.

Also btw, on the way back I had the same cabin crew and the attendent from Italy who I met on the way over, and I had a warm greeting. She's been doing the Italy route for 40 years. AA ha no manditory retirement age for attendents she told me.

Ciao

final report from Italy

Got up at 3:45 and left the hotel at 4 AM, and took a highway to the Autostrada that was not marked until you were on it and 3 hours later was in Milan at Malpensa (literal translation, Bad Thought!). Perhaps my greatest achievement this trip was getting from milan to Borso and back without getting lost or stopping for directions.

But I have to admit the signs for the car rental place are very small(and only in Italian -- Noloreggio).

And I was very proud that the lady checking me in at the Airlines counter asked me all the security questions in Italian for the first time in 30 trips here -- after I had spent a few minutes explaining, in Italian, that bikes fly free. (Next year I am carrying a letter from AA!)

I had my last cappucino until next year and am waiting for the loading of the plane.

I spent my last night at the best pizzeria in town, after turning down, politely, the opportunity to play tennis with Bruno, as I did not have tennis shows with me, and then sat with Bruno and his wife Bruna and my other Italians friends chatting. They were amazed when I used google maps to show them a sattellite view of their house across the street, and then their old house, about 30 miles away. Bruno practised his English with me and we agreed that next year I would bring my tennis shoes.

At 11 we called it a night and everyone wished me a bon viaggo, and asked how to say it in English.

Tuesday, August 12, 2008

final thoughts

As far as cycling goes this is the best shape I have been in.I have biked 7 days in a row and about 5 hours a day at ragbrai, come home and biked 4 times, then biked another 7 days in a row here in Italy, but doing one mountain climb a day for 6 days straight.

My hamstring held and I had very few aches. I took no motrin or advil here. I consider myself very lucky given my spring.

I averaged about 5 hours a day riding for the week.

I made a lot of Italian friends, and I certainly hope to come back next year.

One of the American couples turned out to be very nice, and I drove them to the bike shop this afternoon and also helped then get a reservation at my favourite hotel in Venice, the Locanda Orseolo.

They have 9 children. She had 6 and he 3. She is in amazing shape for having had 6 children.

They were very appreciative of my help today with their bike wheel issue. And I wouldn't let him bike to the store on a broken bike when I had a car. He was pissed that George wouldn't help, but gee, if George goes out of way for one of his guests where will it end?

With people like me saving $100 a day coming here without his group!

Until next year!

what are the odds??

As I made a right turn off the main road about 8 miles from the hotel I saw 2 cyclists making the same turn, but from the opposite direction. As I looked at the lead cyclist he was wearing a white do rag (no helmet) just like the cyclist I had drafted behinf for an hour on my trip to Enego last week. He and his friend had ridden side by side and then implored me to follow them up the mountain after my hour of drafting.

I looked more closely and it had to be the same guy. As luck would have it we all three were stopped at the train tracks up ahead (for the first time in 4 separate weeks of 4 years of being on this road) and he pulled next to me and obviously recognized me too, saying, ti ricordati? Energo? Do you remember me. I said, of course, and we talked for a while and I told them I went to Conco the hard way this morning. They knew the route I had taken and agreed, that it was indeed Dura, hard.

He asked me if I lived nearby and I said I was on vacation. They asked where from and I told them I was from Texas, and they were very surprised as they had never met a cyclist from the US.

Finally the train went by and we took off together and they drafted me for a mile and then shouted that they were turning to go home. I shouted back that perhaps I would see them next year.

And maybe I will!

Basta Cosi, L'Ultimo Giorno; Enough Already, the last day

It looked a little like rain this morning so instead of heading for parts unknown I figured to ride on roads I knew, so I headed for Conco, which I had climbed with the 10 guys from Cittadella on Sunday.

I found the correct right turn off the main road to Marostica, and saw a sign for the human chess board match in September; I passed familiar stores and was on the lookout for a tricky turn we made on Sunday.

I must have missed it because I soon found myself on about the steepest hill here I haver climbed. I was huffing and puffing, which I almost never do. On Sunday I had talked the whole way up with the group. Clearly this was the wrong road. I figured it must flatten out at some point, from impossibly steep to merely steep, which I can climb with just some effort.

I figured wrong!I seriously thought of turning back but had too much time invested in the climb to turn back, but I seriously thought aboutit!

After 30 to 40 minutes of this I finally reached a town, and bought a few bananas, and started again up the mountain.

Finally I passed by a welcome sight, an Alfa Romeo 164 -- that I had seen the other day, so I knew that I was now on the same road that I had been on before.

Another 45 minutes of climbing and I found myself in Conco, finalmente!

A welcome cappucino and a normal decent found me back at Bassano, with one more surprise, to be posted later.

A Posto

Monday, August 11, 2008

Casino, a Typical Italian Game Show

Let me say at the outset that this one hour game show makes almost no sense and all the 6 female hosts dance topless. Yes, another typical Italian gameshow!
It was on last night, Sunday, from 11 -12. Here's a description.

First the host, a man in his 40's is introduces on a set with a gaming table. Then we are introduced to two contestants, a man in his 40's and an attractive woman in her 30's. Then we are introduced to 5 stunning women, probably all from Slovenia, and those baco bit forner USSR countries that seem to produce all those women that resemble Maria Sharapova. The women all have black bra tops on and very short skirts, that barely cover their cheeks. One of them, with the largest (fake) breasts, is seated and is identified as tonight's "It" girl.

A few games of blackjack are played, but before the games finish, a bell goes off and a cheesy lounge singer comes out on stage (there is a live audience there) looking like Andy Kauffman doing eirther Vic Ferrari or his lounge lizard act, and he sings in badly accented English some pop song I have never heard before.

When he's finished, the seated woman gets up and begins to dance and removes her top. After a few minutes of this it's back to the game.

Everytime the host turns away from the dancer that is next to him flashes her breasts at him.

Then the contestants play a few more games and the whole process with the lounge singer, and the girl is repeated.

Eventually all the women on stage remove their tops and dance and then remain topless, with not much else to do.

The contestents, both the women and man, watch the dancers and applaud.

This goes on for the whole hour, just repeating its self.

It was so boring I turned it off before the hour was up.

I can just imagine this show on American TV.

YMCA

OK, so I am a sucker for the song, and at least "Denise Austin" here was playing the original song, so I figured, why not, and jumped in the pool and joined the throng of about 50 people dancing, all women!

Let me tell you, it is harder than it looks to follow someone in reverse! Besides I suck at mime, dance and simon says. But I did enjoy myself. A little bit of Fire Island right hear at la Conca Verde!

Miss Conca Verde

Since this is FerreAugusto, the Italian vacation in August there are activities all day here at the pool, culminating in the crowning of Miss Conca Verde at 5:30.

And now there is a new Aerobics instructor, a blond ponytailed young lady with lots of renewed energy. No bikes for her as they have been pulled from the pool, as her deal is all dance, which is imitated by her 40 pool followers. She is very enthusiastic.

Give her another hour!

Me, I am waiting for the beauty contest!

Regretfully, it turned out to be a contest for little girls!!

Oh well...I was wondering how they would judge this!

la Concha Verde, the local swimming pool

It is perhaps beyond my writing capabilities to describe the Borso swimming pool. Here are some facts:
Entrance fee is not cheap, at 7 Euros, about 10 bucks.
There's a 50 meter sqaure pool.
A lap pool with 6 lanes that is 25 meters.
There are two large slides with separate pools.
There's a kid's pool.
And there are two outdoor hot tub pools.
It's Monday and there must be, about 500 people here. Yep, and about 350 bikini's, whether they should be on that person or not.
And I am the only person in a racing triathlete suit.
But here is the nuttiest thing: at one end of the 50 meter pool there are 12 people doing a spinning class, in the pool, on spin cycles! With an instructor out of water and a big stereo system behind him. It's a real scream!

I tried to swim laps but the lap pool only has one lane reserved for swimmers!
And despite the sign one mother kept allowing her anoying brat to jump in the pool in that lane and wasn't even watching out for swimmers!4 laps of that and I was done.

I figure you need to be here when the place opens if you want to do laps. But thatls prime tempo pe les bici.

The lifeguards here are the alpha versions of even our usa guards, struting back and forth poolside in their skimpy red speedos flirting with all the women.

Contrary to the seaside beaches here all the women wear tops, althoughs under the age of 8,it appears, do not.but if you are female and lying on your stomach it appears to be permisable to be topless.

Bathing caps are maditory for man and women unless your head is shaved. And there are a lot of italians sporting my look here.

Despite all the bikinis there are no thongs here. Not sure why not, but maybe they are not in vogue this far north and inland.

There are hundreds of orage and yellow targeted umbrella in the ground that dot the grass hillside around the pool, and they and the the chairs under them are free, but I think you need to be here early to score one. There are a few trees and I am under one, as most people here prefer the sun.

BTW, the spin instructor is still at it, after 30 minutes, although he appears to be winding down.

Nope, he was taking a break, although his class wasn't. Now he's back on the bike, blowing his whistle and looking as cool as he can be with his shaved head and shades, atop an exercise bike poolside!

I just walked off the large pool length and it's 43 yards, which is a strange lenth given that it has swimming diving started blocks marked 1-8.

Btw, all the lifeguards here are way darker than Obama!

It does appear that a LG has finally shown up to stand over and police the one lap lane. Nope, he is gone. It's still too chaotic and dangerous to try.

While there are a number of people with tattoos here the percentage is far lower than in the usa.

BTW, one hour in and Mr.Spin is still at it. Though I haven't recognised one song, as it seems to be a mix tape of all techo. OK, now I recognise Call Me, by Blondie, from American Gigolo, but not the singer in this version.

It seems strange that the public pool near my house is empty most summer days while this one is so packed and clearly the place to be.

I mean what else is there to do on a 90 degree lazy Monday August day in Borso Del Grappa? Absolutely nothing.

And there's no better place to be than here.

Un Altro Giorno, Un Altro Caffe!

I was going to go up the Brenta river valley this morning and go right instead of left, to Enego, and go up a different mountain.

Monday mornings here are very slow. Since everyone rode on Sunday, few people ride on Monday. Fortunately, about the only person I saw on the road came up from behind me and as I said hello, he slowed, obviously happy for the company. He told me he was only going to the end of the road as he hadn't really been out all year due to some accident with his leg. He was still pretty strong and we rode side by side for the most part, and talked. He was riding a nice carbon Scapin, which is made nearby, and I complimented him on it. And like yesterday, when I complimented one of my Cittadella friend' Bianchi, he said that it's what's in the legs that count. How true!

We rode into a very stiff wind the whole way, that fortunately he could enjoy on the way back. Regretfully the wind changes around mid morning so by the time I returned it would again be in my face for the final 15 miles.

As I reached the end of the road, truly,I went right, but could not find the climb I wanted so I turned around and climbed the 16 hairpin turns up to Enego, taking my usual hour.

And once again, enjoyed a most delicious cappucino.

I arrived back at the Residence at 12:45, about 5 hours after I had left this morning. The ride was 60 miles, but the climb reduces the average mph.

At 1 Bruna, as promised yesterday, brought me a heaping hot plate of fettucini with homemade tomato sauce, garnised with fresh basil and 3 small tomatoes.She also brought a plate full of amazing small apple strudels that her husband had made. She also gave platefuls of the pastries to several other guests.

She apologised for not inviting me over to eat but the house was a mess from all her cooking. I told her that was fine.

And sat out on the patio in front of the residence and ate an amazing meal! Just wonderful. As were the strudels.

And now, as the day is hot and there. Is nothing else to do, it is pool time.

Sunday, August 10, 2008

Doug and Bruna's Motorcycle Adventure

Since it's Sunday the chef (me) has the night off (beside I am out of food) so I had planned to eat out. One of the ladies in the group of folks that I talk with all afternoon, and who lives across from the hotel residence had mentioned to me that there was an excellent Pizzeria in the next town. I searched for it myself by car on my afternoon gelato run but couldn't locate it.

I mentioned this to her late this afternoon and she offered to show me where it was, as the towns are very small.so she brings out her Motor cycle and two helmets, and puts her dog in the "boot" a plastic case with a hole cut out for its head and off we go, with much laughter from the folks back on the patio.first we pull up to her house and she honks until her husband comes to the window and she tells him she is leavig with the american and not returning. We all have a good laugh.

And then we turn around and speed away, ironically on my bike route through town. She asks me if I'm afraid and I say no, I used to drive one in Rome when I was 14.

We get to the Pizzeria parking lot and she let's the dog out and then we start on our way back, with the dog running next to us!we are quite the sight. Not exactly Easy Rider!

Finally her dog tires and we stop and put him back in his trunk, with his little head sticking out. I ask if her husband cut the hole in the plastic but she tells me the mechanic has done it.

We get back to much fanfare and I tell them all that I have fallen off 3 times. They know I am joling and I tell them Bruna is a good driver.

Her husband came out to take the bike to 7 pm mass.

Bruna told me that her husband, who I met yesterday,has studies English at University, but that was obviously years ago. He's a very friendly looking man who always has a smile on his face. She also telle me her grown sons speak English well and one works in London.

She asked me how I found this place as she has never met any Americans here before.

I think to myslef how odd that with all the Americans that come bike her not one of them has paused to engage these folks in a converstion.

Obviously few of us cyclists here speak Italian, but many do, and much better than I do.
But then, the nice getleman I met on the road to Enego the other day lived with his Italian brother in Toronto for 6 years and rarely spoke English.

Bruna went home to wait for her husband.
.
But not before I took a few photographs for the blog.

Everybody Rides On Sunday!

In Italy and especially in this region, the seat of cycling, everyone with a racing bike rides, typically with their club and club kits. One after another the groups go by; the young, the middle aged and the pensioners, thin, fat and in between they are all out. Forget church. Cycling is their religion on Sunday.
I left at 7 am, figuring to find my way to Marostica (where in the middle of the square, is a human sized chesboard, one of 2 in Italy, the other being in Gubbio), and them find a climb up to Conco that I had ridden before.

I found my way to Marostica, and then hoped the right hand turn I was looking for would be marked, and it was. Better yet I saw a man on a bike turning just then. I caught up to him and asked if this was the way to Conco. He said yes and asked me to join him. His team was ahead of him. I said I went quite slowly in the mountains, and he said that was fine, as so did he. He said together we would go slowly. He asked where I lived and I told him and he said, ah, a friend of George Bush!, I said no, but as we caught up to his teamates he introduced me as a friendly Texan and friend og George Bush. It was all in good fun and there were perhaps 10 guys, all over 60, from Cittadella, a village south of Bassano. The climb to Conco took about an hour and a half, and eventually the group split and I rode in the first group with their three "fastest" riders. When we reached Conco and waited for the others I took their pictures and told them I was going to a bar I knew for my cappucino. They asked me to come with them another 6 miles up to another mountain top, where they were all going to drink wine. They said it makes you fly down the mountain! I said it would make me fall off the mountain! So we parted ways with hearty handshakes and great memories and I went to my favourite bar for my much anticipated caffe.

As I sipped my cappucino I realised how much more richer this trip's experiences have been because I have spent all my time with Italians and no Americans, as I have in the past. I made the right decision not to come with George's group as I have the past three years.

A Presto

Saturday, August 9, 2008

The Residence

I am not in either one of the two hotels that Silvia owns in the area, but rather in the Residence, a dormitory like structure with larger rooms and kitchens. I chose it deliberately so I could interact with the other cyclists here. But that turned out to be a bust as aside from one cyclist who has left, the other 5 are as antisocial as can be. Whereas all the Italian couples here love to talk to me, the Americans barely say hello.

I have met everyone here. Aside from the antisocial cyclists there are two very nice elderly Italian couples, and 5 Hungarian men here working on something for Silvia. They speak no English and only a few words of Italian, but they are very friendly and always say hello to me.

They are all about 35, and very tan, and very large, all built like former weightlifters with big guts. They generally all wear just short shorts and no shirt and sit and smoke around the patio table.

But despite their appearance, they ae never rowdy and never drunk, unlike a lot of German tourists at all the bars in town.

But they definitely look like you want them on your side in a fight.

I always laugh when they pile into their litle car and their combined weight drops the car body a few inches!

A Magnificent Saturday ride!

Drafting behind two italians riding side by side for the first 18 miles.....wonderful

Them not minding it one bit, even better.

A one hour climb up the mountain to Enego....easier than two days ago

The world's best cappucino at the very top....yes, priceless!

As they say in cycling, I had "legs" today. Was very strong. Like the final day of ragbrai. Strong all the way home, for 60 miles.

I left at 7 am this morning, and quickly met two cyclists who came from behind me riding side by side. They were not doing a punishing pace, maybe 16 to 18 mph. I fell in and they recognised me by beginning to point out holes in the pavement and grates, which is polite when someone is drafting. I hung with them all the way to the end of the road, up the river valley. At the end I thanked them profusely for the pull and they said but I now must come to Enego, which was a 1 hour climb (for me). I said yes, I was going, but that I was very slow and wanted to say thanks now. I followed them a few 100 meters while we both ate our bananas and they took off. I figured that their pace that morning prior to the mountain was just for fun, as no one who looks like do, in their matching club kits rides that slowly and climbs that fast. And therein lies the difference between the usa and here. Some days the italians just like to relax on a bike, and then use their energy for the mountain. In the states people go as fast as they can, almost all the time.

I had the done the Enego clinb two days ago and it was definitely easier today. The weather was cooler and I was, perhaps, 5 to 10 percent faster. As I neared the top, after 16 hairpin turns (Grappa has about 30), I saw my two friends coming down. Based on the time it takes to pause per un caffe, I figure they beat me by 15 minutes.
As I rounded the final corner into town I saw my favourite bar and stopped.

A cappucino never tastes so good as when you have just spent an hour slogging up a mountain!

Enego is a beautiful mountaintop town, and in this northern region, so close to the Swiss border, resembles a cross between an Italian town and a Swiss resort. It is charming.

Having savored my cappucino I put on my windbreaker and began my half hour decent, which was pretty good as these roads are wider than Grappa's.
Just when I approached the turnoff back home, at the foot of the climb I saw a man in his 60's and two very pretty and fit (and very well outfitted --this is Italy) girls/women, looking to be about 20.

The part of the road we were about to ride on is for bikes only, with no cars, and very narrow, more of a paved path, so I figured it would be a good thing to follow them as traffic coming the opposite way would see the 4 of us, more so than me alone. (Ok, and the view from behind wasn't bad either. Dad (grandpa? Uncle?) Was booking it at 18 to 20 and they were right there, as was I. I drafted them halfway down the river road until they stopped for a caffe and I continued solo all the way home, finishing stronger at the finish than at the start.

Finishing up my pbj and chips on the patio looking up at Mt Grappa. Hard to beat this.

Friday, August 8, 2008

Saturday

Days are meaningless to me here, expect to remind me when I leave.
After a very stormy afternoon and evening and night yesterday it is a brilliant morning. Sunny, no clouds, no more humidity. Brisk temps and no wind. A perfect biking day. Today would have been the day to climb Grappa. But yesterday was fine too. I also hear that the main road that I used has more cars on it during the weekend.

So I shall do the Brenta river ride to the end and then decide left or right!

Mt Grappa and Luck

I have read that it is better to be luck than good. And today was a good example of that.

I left the hotel at a little after 7 this morning, with no concrete destination in mind for the day.

As I neared the bottom of the 18 mile Mt Grappa climb I saw a person pedaling slowly up ahead. As I biked past her I noticed she was a woman, somewhat rare to see even here on a bike and I wondered if it was Ada, an Italian friend of George's who is in her mid 50's and likes Americans enough to bike with George's group weekly. Despite her proximity to so many Americans she doesn't know a word of English. I have biked with her once each year for the past three and we have always gotten along well together as I can putter around in Italian and she is as slow as I am on the bike.
I hoped I would see her here this week, as she is lots of fun.

As I passed her and looked at her we recognised each other at the same time. How she recognised me in full kit, helmet and sunglasses I don't know but she did. She asked where I was biking today and I said I didn't know. She invited me to climb Mt Grappa with and her friends halfway and I thought about it and said yes. By now her friend, Francesca and her husband, Flavio, had shown up and I was introduced. I actually had ridden with Francesca last year one day to Conco, with Ada, but she didn't remember me.in her tight outfit she looked a bit like the Michelin woman. Her husband, however, looked like a football linebacker.
slowly we made up Grappa, which is so steep at the beginning that you think yourself crazy for doing this, given that it goes on like this for almost 2 and one-hours!
A word about Grappa, as that's how I came to find this place. About 20 years ago a writer for a bike magazine, Christopher Hoch, wrote a great article about climbng this mountain, and staying at the Italian Bicycling Center, started and run by what he described as a curmungeon named George, who was then 55 and with little marketing save for small space ads in bike mags, attracted enough people so that there were on average 8 people there daily. He led the rides and was very regimented: out at 8:00am, back by 12:30, one cafe stop and all meals together at specific times, because he would only read the set menu of the meal one time.
I read the article and harboured a secret desire to go and climb Mt Grappa, which in the Tour De France would be a Category 1 climb. So I put the *rticle in my sock drawer, where I would see it every day and about 12-15 years later I brought my wife here. I loved the biking here, George less so. Few people warm up to him at first, but most people here are repeaters, as often as 14 times.when I got back I tracked down Christopher Hoch and thanked him for the article. I made his day. (Isn't the internet wonderful for finding folks!?)
I climbed Mt. Grappa that first year as well as my second year. Last year it rained 3 of 5 days we were here, and I didn't.
So I knew what to expect this morning
It was already hot out this morning as we began the climb. Ada reminded me that the first part ws the steepest. Quickly I had sweated though my whole outfit. My pants, shirt and even clothes! The sweat was pouring off me. Flavio and Ada didn't wear their helmets up, although they had them clipped to their bike for the ride down. Flavio joined me while Francesca and Ada fell back. It was evident that for Flavio this was a piece of cake, despite his size. He wasn't drinking any water and barely breaking a sweat! I was dripping and chugging gatorade.
We talked on the way up, until 3 guys passed us that he knew and he took off with them. About 15 minutes later I saw him waiting for me. He told me that one of the guys had been a former world champion cyclist, and lived nearby in Semonzo. The man was now about my age, although clearly more blessed in the speed gene pool than I.
After about an hour and a half of climbing we reached a small village, well, really a small hotel, restaurant and bar. We stopped here and waited for the girls. Francesca wasn't but a few minutes back and when she arrived she told uis that her right calf had cramped. Ada took much longer and also arrived with a leg cramp. They were both going back down rather than continue the climb.I asked Flavio but he too was turning back. He had climbd Grappa 18 times this year and had a 100 mile ride tomorrow and wanted to be fresh!
But they urged me to go on, and Flavio even gave me his secret weapon for decending, a trash bag; he demonstrated tearing a hole in the bottom for one's head and as well as arm holes and said to put in on under my soaking wet shirt when I came down. He said that no air would get through.
I folded it up and stashed it and continued my climb, knowing it would be another hour of brutal climbing before I reached the top.

As you get to the top of Grappa, which is about 6000' up, you begin to hear cow bells ring out as every cow has one and there is a farmer who has several herds, for cheese.it's an eerie and amusing sound in an otherwise silent climb, as generally people don't talk much as they climb.
Reaching the top is rather anticlimactic. There's no one clapping or taking your photo, with the caption I climbed Mt Grappa (now they could sell thousands of thse a year!).you wonder into the bar, where the only water is for sale, and begin to put on every bit of clothing for the decent, as it's about 35 to 40 up there!
Then it's down the way you came, either screaming down the hill at speeds up to 45 or 50 like all the italians, or holding on to the brakes for dear life, like yours truly!

About halfway down I look off to the distance and it looks like rain, which starts just as I pass the restaurant where I said ciao ciao to Ada and Flavio and Francesca. I stop because there is nothing worse than decending in a storm.

I go in for un caffe and watch a huge thunder storm roll up the mountain. Then comes the hail, and finally after an hour, fog. I decide to leave while it's dry.

I made it all the way back to the hotel just minutes before the next thunderstorm came through.

Better to be lucky than good!

Thursday, August 7, 2008

a ride for the ages!

While 3 or the 4 people here cycling with George's group barely talk to me (because I am not with them, although we are all at the same hotel) the Italians are always happy to talk with un Americano that talks a bit of English. And the experience has been terrific, as I prefer talking with them.

Today was a brilliant morning and I thought about tackling the big mountain, which requires 2.5 hours of steady climbing to the top.

But as I biked close to the start of the climb up
I decided to not do it, reasoning that if my hamstring went it would be the end of the vacation. So I decided to do it another day and headed for the familiar flat roads up the brenta river valley.


No sooner had I crossed the river at Bassano I saw a group of 5 cyclists making a left turn onto the same road in front of me, so I quickly joined them, and said hello at the first opportunity.three of them had complete kits from their club, Pallidin, and they ranged from perhaps 50 to 65. What was nice was they let me draft their group for the next hour, and even nicer their pace matched mine. I was headed for Enego, about 25 miles up the valley, and stopped as we hit the bottom of what I now realised was the climb to Enego as they were going a different direction. We said goodbye and as I began to pedal up the hill I noticed another cyclist who had been behind me, waiting for me. He sked me if I wanted company. I said yes, but explained, in Italian, that I was very slow. He said he was too (he was 69). We had a great talk up the mountain to Enego for the next hour, and rewarded ourselves with a cafe at the top. From there we decided to press on to Foza, another hour's climb that was steeper. At Foza we began our hair aising decent to Valstagna, 25 hairpins. He was nice enough to wait for me every so often.
As we reached the bottom his wife called, worried because he had been out so long, so we stepped on it home at about 20 mph. We both split off near Bassano as he lived about 15 minutes from there, in Nove.

I thanked him profusely and told him I would always remember this ride.and I will.

Unfortunately the ride home to Borso from Bassano is all up hill, and while it's only about 7 miles it almost always comes at the end of the ride when you're tired.

And today I was on empty. I was out of food, having had two power bar gel packs and a banana and a cappucino. Not enough, although enough to soft pedal in slowly. I stopped at the breadstore near my hotel and bought a croissant stuffed with apricot and wolfed it down.

Now comes the relaxing afternoon.

Priceless.

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

random notes from Borso del Grappa

Perhaps my greatest achievment this trip was the 2 hour conversation in Italian that I had this afternoon while sitting in the shade after lunch. The couple were staying at our hotel and sat down near me and we got to chatting. They were retired, she being 79 and he 81, and great grand parents. We taled about Bush, soccer, Formula 1, the italian premier, oir lives and familes. They had both worked for Agip, the gas company here.
It's a great accomplishment because truth be told my fluency in Italian is lousy, and clumsy, despite all my years of living here as a kid and all my trips here since.

How to spot an Italian cyclist: they always wear a full "kit", meaning that the top and the bottom match, and are from some team. They rarely wear helmets and all ride fast.

The streets are narrow here and the traffic can be heavy on the main roads, but the drivers here respect us and while they get close they will not hit us and will politely honk if they realise we don't know they are there.

Everyone says don't the water in Italy. I drink it. I drank it as a kid and I can drink it now. I go through through far to much in a day to buy the stuff.

I didn't use to drink it when I first started coming her to bike, but it seems the best thing to do.

Heaven on Earth

35 miles so far this morning. Stopping for a cappucino and brioche. Sitting on a terrace at a small cafe watching the passing parade. Some monied lady just walked in with a little black short dress on and expensive sunglasses and even the older mothers watched her walk. For the most part this is a mountain working class village where women wear sensible shoes not FKME heels at 10 am.

It looked like rain this morning and indeed it had rained on parts of my ride up the Brenta river valley. I met an older man on the road, basically the only people my speed and we drafted each other until my turnoff point, a first for me in Italy, -- drafting off an unknown rider. He had never seen a camelback before and asked about it.

No italian uses one. And for the most part they use one water bottle and cut the top off the other one and stick their rain jacket in there. They fill up their one bottle at local foutains.

Tuesday, August 5, 2008

Borso del Grappa

My bike arrived at the luggage counter called Fuori measura, outside measurements. I found the Hertz counter and my car and was on my way. Managed to make the drive to Borso in 3 hours and did not make one wrong turn. Did the same last year from Rome. Will still not make up for ouir first time here 4 years ago when Nancy and I were hopelessly lost numerous times. All my mistakes. I even had the name of the town we were staying in wrong. Nancy ultimately found the hotel, that god! I thought we were staying in Bassano del Grappa, but it was Borso del grappa, about 15 minutes away. Ok, enough said about that night! Not my best work!

So I was very proud that I made the drive again this year without issue.

As I pulled up to the hotel I saw a man I had met here 2 years ago. He and his wife are retired marine core band members. A tuba player and a clarinetist. I met two other people here biking for the week too.

I went to put my bike together and discovered that for the second time in 3 years that my rear deraillur was bent out of alignment. I wasn't pleased. I took the bike to the local bike shop but it was closed, so I decided to go to the supermarket. Also closed for afternoon siesta. So I went and had my favorite treat, a gelato. When the the going gets tough the tough get gelato!
It was delicios, as always.
After Siesta I tended to the bike and watched as Leopoldo did his magic. The man is a wizard with a bike. He is married to Patrizia, a woman from the usa who came here 25 years ago with George, to start the Italian Bicycling center, which is where I met her and George and Leopoldo. Patrizia and G split up years ago and she married Leopoldo. He speaks not a word of English and she is fluent in Italian.
Having my bike fixed I am a happy camper, especially after searching several towns and all of Bassano for the one restaurant that is open. Yes, there is only one. Oddly I must have passed at least 15 german bars with much beer drinking and merriment, but no real food. So I have my penne and my pizza and am carbo loading for domani.
At least this restaurant has no americans or brits. It's all italians and not a tourist trap.
But I searched the whole center of the city and not one restaurant or even pizzeria. Nancy would have had a fit about looking for this, although she would have eaten today whereas I ate nothing all day save for a roll in the morning on the plane and my ice cream.

Bon appetito!

Monday, August 4, 2008

On The Road Again

Sitting here in the Dfw Airport, having just checked my bike with the usual American Airlines snafu. The poor gate agents are never knowledable about the fact that bikes to and from Int'l destinations are always free, per IATA rules. Why I don't know, but it's been that way for years. The problem is that AA doesn't post this on their web site and even their call centers are sometimes not familiar with this. A call last night found an agent who knew this but the one I called this morning did not. Luckily my gate agent finally found a smart person who confirmed this. But she spent a long time doing so. Apparently she's been charging unsuspecting bikers to Europe $90 for years. I will write a letter to AA when I get back.

But I came early to the airport anticipating the situation as it happens every year.

Oh well, now I pray for an ontime flight to jfk and that my bike makes it to Milan.

A Presto

Sunday, August 3, 2008

Sunday Slog

47 miles today. Started off strong but was tired at mile 35 and came home the short way t0 finish at 47 miles instead of 55. Just ran out of gas. The scale said I wasn't dehydrated but it may have been the heat, although I started at 7 am. It will hit around 103 today. Vitals: 156, 6% body fat and 60% hydrated.
Tomorrow, off to Italy. Need to take my bike apart and pack tonight.

Saturday, August 2, 2008

Saturday

John and I rode a nice paced 30 miles today in 2 hours. I admit that I had nothing in my legs today and wimped out about going 45 today as John only had 2 hours and I didn't feel like doing more. Tomorrow I will go 55. It will be 103 today, again, and was pretty hot and humid for our ride today. I finished the ride at 156, having lost 2 pounds to dehydration. It amazing that the RAGBRAI effect continues even after the ride stops.

Friday, August 1, 2008

Rain - Again

It looked like rain again this morning, so I did not ride. May ride tonight, although it will be 100. Will definitely ride tomorrow with John.